As I get ready to head out of the country once again tomorrow, I wanted to take this opportunity to remind everyone that next Friday – October 14, 2016 – had been declared a National Day of Adventure by Men's Journal and Victorinox, the company behind the iconic Swiss Army Knife.
While not an official holiday of course, the entire point of the NDOA is to encourage people to get outside, engage in their favorite outdoor activities, or perhaps even try something new. To that end, the two sponsors of the Day of Adventure have helped organize more than 30 events across the U.S. to give us all a starting point for getting our adventures off to a good start.
While I'll actually be in Spain on that day, I'll certainly take some time to hit a trail and do some hiking, or possibly even some snorkeling in the Mediterranean Sea. And since it is a Friday, hopefully some of you will take part in the celebration by heading out to enjoy your own adventures too. Why not skip out of work early, grab your mountain bike and take a ride on your favorite trail? Or, gather up some friends and take a scenic hike somewhere before grabbing some dinner and drinks afterwards. The whole point is to add a little excitement and adventure back into your life, something that hopefully we do on a more regular basis than one day a year, but it is a good place to get started never the less.
So, whether your like to ride, hike, run, paddle, fly, climb, or some other crazy outdoor activity, don't forget to set a little time aside to pursue that passion next Friday. After all, you'll never regret the days that you do the things you love, and you might just discover other passions along the way.
Get out there and enjoy!
Kamis, 06 Oktober 2016
Himalaya Fall 2016: Japanese Climber Begins Solo Summit Bid on Everest
While most of the big commercial teams are now winding down their expeditions for the autumn in the Himalaya, there are still some very interesting climbs to that are still ongoing. Not the least of these is Nobukazu Kuriki's attempt at a solo – without oxygen no less – along the North Side of Everest. Yesterday, we received word that the Japanese alpinist has now set off on his attempt at the summit, a place that has eluded him on five separate occasions in the past.
According to Kuriki's support team, he will climb along the Hornbein Couloir route in his attempt to reach the summit. There is some speculation that he will make that approach along what is known as the Supercouloir Route, which is a combination of a route opened by a Japanese team back in 1980 and the Hornbein. If all goes according to plan, he should potentially top out sometime in the next couple of days.
Kuriki himself has been updating his Facebook page with updates as he goes. His most recent post indicates that he has reached his high camp and will set off for the summit possibly late Friday or early Saturday morning local Nepali time. Weather conditions are reportedly quite good, and while there has been a lot of snow deposited along the route, Nobu appears to be making good time on his way up.
If you are familiar with Kuriki's previous attempts on Everest, you probably already know what a successful summit would mean to him. As already mentioned, he has made five previous attempts at a solo summit on the mountain, one of which ended in disaster. In 2012, the Japanese climber became stranded high on the South Side in Nepal, and had to be helped down by a rescue team. While he was stuck at altitude, he suffered severe frostbite to his fingers and toes. He ended up having nine of his fingers amputated, and yet he continues to return to the mountain on a regular basis to test his strength and determination. Hopefully this time his efforts will pay off. Hopefully he'll also get up and down safely.
Over on Dhaulagiri we're still waiting on word from the Altitude Junkies about their plans. The team has hoped to summit that mountain this past weekend, but turned back after finding unexpectedly deep snow at Camp 2. They had returned to Base Camp, where they were pondering their next move, but since that time there has been now word on their decision. It is possible they are waiting out the weather and hoping to launch another summit attempt in the next few days, but they could also be preparing to clean up BC and head home. For now, we'll just have to wait to see what happens.
That's it for today. I'll be keeping a close eye on Kuriki's progress and will post updates as we hear more.
According to Kuriki's support team, he will climb along the Hornbein Couloir route in his attempt to reach the summit. There is some speculation that he will make that approach along what is known as the Supercouloir Route, which is a combination of a route opened by a Japanese team back in 1980 and the Hornbein. If all goes according to plan, he should potentially top out sometime in the next couple of days.
Kuriki himself has been updating his Facebook page with updates as he goes. His most recent post indicates that he has reached his high camp and will set off for the summit possibly late Friday or early Saturday morning local Nepali time. Weather conditions are reportedly quite good, and while there has been a lot of snow deposited along the route, Nobu appears to be making good time on his way up.
If you are familiar with Kuriki's previous attempts on Everest, you probably already know what a successful summit would mean to him. As already mentioned, he has made five previous attempts at a solo summit on the mountain, one of which ended in disaster. In 2012, the Japanese climber became stranded high on the South Side in Nepal, and had to be helped down by a rescue team. While he was stuck at altitude, he suffered severe frostbite to his fingers and toes. He ended up having nine of his fingers amputated, and yet he continues to return to the mountain on a regular basis to test his strength and determination. Hopefully this time his efforts will pay off. Hopefully he'll also get up and down safely.
Over on Dhaulagiri we're still waiting on word from the Altitude Junkies about their plans. The team has hoped to summit that mountain this past weekend, but turned back after finding unexpectedly deep snow at Camp 2. They had returned to Base Camp, where they were pondering their next move, but since that time there has been now word on their decision. It is possible they are waiting out the weather and hoping to launch another summit attempt in the next few days, but they could also be preparing to clean up BC and head home. For now, we'll just have to wait to see what happens.
That's it for today. I'll be keeping a close eye on Kuriki's progress and will post updates as we hear more.
Rabu, 05 Oktober 2016
Video: Climbing the South Face of Annapurna
In terms of pure altitude, Annapurna ranks 10th amongst the 8000 meter peaks, topping out at 8091 meters (26,545 ft). But when it comes to level of difficulty to climb, it ranks second to perhaps only K2. In fact, it is considered the most dangerous mountain on the planet by many thanks to its frequent avalanches and technical challenges, and yet it continues to hold an allure over many climbers who travel to its flanks each spring to have a go at the summit.
This video a short documentary about such a climb. In it, we join famed Swiss mountaineer Jean Troillet as he attempts Annapurna back in 2012. The clips gives us some impressive shots of the mountain, and provides plenty of insights into what it takes to take on such a difficult and dangerous climb. If you're a fan of Himalayan expeditions to the big peaks, you'll definitely want to watch this short-film, which takes us along on one of the toughest climbs of all.
This video a short documentary about such a climb. In it, we join famed Swiss mountaineer Jean Troillet as he attempts Annapurna back in 2012. The clips gives us some impressive shots of the mountain, and provides plenty of insights into what it takes to take on such a difficult and dangerous climb. If you're a fan of Himalayan expeditions to the big peaks, you'll definitely want to watch this short-film, which takes us along on one of the toughest climbs of all.
Video: Nat Geo Tells Us Why it is so Hard to Catch Poachers
As the world's population of elephants and rhinos wanes dramatically, many countries across the globe have stepped up their efforts to combat poaching in Africa and elsewhere. This is a battle that has been raging for sometime however, and yet we continue to hear how poaching is having a dramatic impact on the number of these creatures that roam the wild. Why is it so hard to stop these illegal activities? In this video from National Geographic Live, Naftali Honig – founder of the EAGLE Network – tells us why it is so hard to bring these people to justice.
Adventure Blog Interview: Jeff Evans of Travel Channel's Everest Air
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Jeff Evans inside a rescue helicopter at Everest Base Camp |
For two months during the 2016 climbing season, a dedicated and experienced team of Sherpas and helicopter pilots, led by experienced mountaineer and medic Jeff Evans, went to great lengths to rescue climbers, guides, and local Nepalis living in the Khumbu Valley alike. "Everest Air" will give us a glimpse of what those operations were like, and how Jeff and his squad impacted the lives of those they helped.
Recently, I had a chance to chat with Jeff to get his thoughts on the show, the Everest climbing seven, what it was like conducting high altitude medical operations, and a lot more. It was clear from our conversation that this wasn't just a television gig for him, but a chance to give back to both the mountaineering community and the Nepali people.
An adventurer and outdoor athlete, Jeff grew up in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina, where a love of the outdoors was instilled at a very young age. As he grew older, he immigrated west to Colorado where he attended college at UC Boulder where he studied medicine as he worked towards becoming a physician's assistant. While there he also continued to hone his climbing skills, which would later take him up some of the more famous routes in Yosemite, Rocky Mountain, and Joshua Tree National Parks. Later, he would branch into mountaineering as well, and eventually become a guide – and conducted search and rescue operations – on Denali in Alaska. In 2001, he even summited Everest along with blind climber Erik Weihenmayer, a long time friend that he would share many adventures with.
Last year, following the tragic earthquake that hit Nepal, Jeff returned to that country to help lend a hand. His experience as a search and rescue operator, along with his training as a medic, allowed him to play a vital role in the difficult days that came after that natural disaster. His deep love for the Nepali people, and a place that has given him so much throughout his climbing career, spurred him into action then, and was a major reason why he wanted to return once again this year to be a part of "Everest Air."
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Working on a patient at EBC |
But before he officially took the gig, Jeff says he told the producers that if he was going to be a part of the team, they had to truly be of service on the mountain. He didn't want the show to revolve around rescuing rich, inexperienced mountaineers who found themselves out of their element on Everest. He wanted to have a meaningful impact beyond the privileged foreign climbers that showed up in large numbers in the Himalaya. He said that the show's creators agreed with his vision, and promised that they weren't going to Nepal to exploit Everest for ratings – it was a promise they stuck to throughout filming.
Jeff and the members of his team gathered in Kathmandu on April 1, and stayed in the country until June 1. During that time, they made 89 total flights and conducted 38 rescues, of which 24 of those operations were in support of locals, including assisting a Nepali woman who had suffered a miscarriage. For Jeff, this was exactly what he had hoped for – assisting mountaineers in need, but more importantly lending a hand to locals who were in dire need of medical attention.
Most of the ailments that the foreign climbers suffered typically revolved around altitude sickness, with both pulmonary and cerebral edema being very common. But, over the course of two months they also helped individuals who suffered other injuries as well, including a broken back, a bowel obstruction, and one person that had taken a 30-foot fall. "Had we not been there," Jeff says, "more people would have died on Everest this season."
Despite his experience as a medic and a climber, adjusting to flying through the Himalaya in a helicopter took some time. "At first I wasn't comfortable in the back of the helicopter," Jeff tells me. "They're just not meant to be flown at those altitudes," he adds. But over time, and as he got to know the talented pilots, he learned to trust them more. "By the end of production, I was getting along just fine."
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Jeff with Bhaila Sherpa of Alpine Rescue Services |
Jeff tells me that he is proud of how production went in Nepal, as he and his team stuck to the values they had hoped to adhere. Mainly, help those in need and make a difference in the local communities, something that will be evident when the show debuts. He also says that the entire production crew showed a great deal of respect for the individuals the medical team were assisting, something that runs counter to the reports we've heard from another television network crew that was operating on Everest at the same time.
With just six episodes to show us the entire spring climbing season, "Everest Air" is likely to be quite the action packed show. Obviously they won't be able to show us all of the rescues they conducted, but you can count on plenty of edge-of-your-seat moments for sure. When I asked Jeff if there were any particular rescues that stood out the most, he quickly rattled off a string of different situations that came to mind. In the end, he settled on the operations they conducted that helped the local Nepalis the most as the ones that he'll always cherish.
As viewers, we'll get to decide which of the team's adventures are the most entertaining and dramatic. "Everest Air" will debut in three weeks time on the Travel Channel starting at 10 PM Eastern Time. Be sure to tune in or set your DVR's accordingly.
Stunning Photo Gallery Highlights the Beauty of Antarctica
When ever we think about Antarctica, images of frozen, windswept landscapes stretching from horizon to horizon usually come to mind. While that isn't altogether completely inaccurate, the icy continent can also be a place of unspeakable beauty as well. It is a wild, remote, and spectacular place that remains largely untouched by man, and while few of us will ever get the chance to actually see it, it is a memorable place nonetheless.
Recently, the website Mashable posted a gallery of jaw-dropping photos that were shot in the Antarctic. Each image was taken by Alasdair Turner, who spends three months each year living at McMurdo Station on the Ross Ice Shelf, working with scientists and researchers who are conducting a wide variety of experiments.
While there, Alasdair gets a chance to experience the Antarctic that is unlike what adventurous travelers see along the coastline. Instead, he gets to travel into the interior of the continent, which is the highest, driest, and coldest place on Earth. The landscapes that are found there are indeed often covered in snow and ice, and they can be vast and forbidding. But, as you'll see in the photos, they can also be incredibly gorgeous too.
I haven't had the chance to visit Antarctica yet. It is the only continent I haven't been to, and it his extremely high on my bucket list. One day, I'll get there. But for now, I'll have to settle for these photos, which only serve to increase my desire to see this amazing place. I think they'll probably have a similar effect on you.
Recently, the website Mashable posted a gallery of jaw-dropping photos that were shot in the Antarctic. Each image was taken by Alasdair Turner, who spends three months each year living at McMurdo Station on the Ross Ice Shelf, working with scientists and researchers who are conducting a wide variety of experiments.
While there, Alasdair gets a chance to experience the Antarctic that is unlike what adventurous travelers see along the coastline. Instead, he gets to travel into the interior of the continent, which is the highest, driest, and coldest place on Earth. The landscapes that are found there are indeed often covered in snow and ice, and they can be vast and forbidding. But, as you'll see in the photos, they can also be incredibly gorgeous too.
I haven't had the chance to visit Antarctica yet. It is the only continent I haven't been to, and it his extremely high on my bucket list. One day, I'll get there. But for now, I'll have to settle for these photos, which only serve to increase my desire to see this amazing place. I think they'll probably have a similar effect on you.
Himalaya Fall 2016: Climbers Make Controversial Speed Ascent of Cho Oyu
Amidst all of the other summits of the big mountains in Nepal this past week, there is one interesting story that has captured the attention of the mountaineering community and created a bit of a rift at the same time. This controversial expedition has caused some to reconsider how to train for their high altitude endeavors, while others find it to be unconventional enough to label it as "unfair means." Either way, it could be part of the future of climbing as others pick up on the approach.
Last Sunday, Adrian Ballinger – of Alpenglow Expeditions – and his partner Emily Harrington completed a successful summit of Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain on the planet at 8188 meters (26,884 ft). That in and of itself wasn't too unusual, as a number of teams topped out during a great summit window last weekend. But, Adrian and Emily did it just ten days after leaving their home in California, something that has been unheard of until now.
Typically on a big Himalayan peak it takes weeks to acclimatize to the altitude. Most climbers arrive in Kathmandu two months prior to their projected summit date. They then travel to their respective base camps, follow a set process for acclimatization by going up and down the mountain several times, and wait for good weather to make a summit bid after their bodies have acclimated to the thin air. That can sometimes take 4-6 weeks, depending on conditions and the climbing schedule.
But Adrian and Emily trained back home using altitude tents to simulate the conditions they would find on the mountain. These tents were able to create an environment that closely approximates the thin air of a big Himalayan peak, but it allows them to stay home, sleep in their own beds, and have the comforts that they are typically accustomed too. Meanwhile, a support team established a Base Camp for them on Cho Oyu, making it ready for their arrival.
Two weeks ago, Ballinger and Harrington left the U.S. to fly to Nepal and then traveled to Tibet to reach the mountain. By the time they reached BC, they were fit, acclimated, and pretty much ready to go. Once the weather window opened last week, they were able to safely climb to the top, taking two clients who had prepared in a similar fashion along with them.
This approach to acclimatizing at home and shortening the length of an expedition isn't new. In fact, it is something that Ballinger and Alpenglow have been working on for some time. The company's Everest expeditions are just a month in length thanks to this novel program, and now he has proven that he can shorten the time considerably on shorter peaks too. This allows clients to spend less time on a potentially dangerous mountain, while having to be away from home for fewer days too. That makes it vacation friendly as well. The downside? An Alpenglow expedition is considerably more expensive than the competition.
This new approach has rankled some in the mountaineering community in the past, but this new Cho Oyu speed ascent has many talking once again. For some, it is an innovative new way to climb in the Himalaya, while others feel like it is still a bit unproven and could be potentially risky. There are those who see it as a bit of "cheating" – for lack of a better word – as well. Those detractors tend to be old school climbers who often consider the use of bottled oxygen as a performance enhancing drug too.
Either way, this could be the future of mountaineering. Alpenglow will of course continue to pursue this novel training technique with the idea of attracting more clients who want to climb on the big peaks, but don't necessarily have two months to dedicate to that proposition. As Ballinger and his team continue to refine their methods, I'm sure more than a few other climbers and guides will be looking to employ similar techniques to aid their expeditions as well.
Last Sunday, Adrian Ballinger – of Alpenglow Expeditions – and his partner Emily Harrington completed a successful summit of Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain on the planet at 8188 meters (26,884 ft). That in and of itself wasn't too unusual, as a number of teams topped out during a great summit window last weekend. But, Adrian and Emily did it just ten days after leaving their home in California, something that has been unheard of until now.
Typically on a big Himalayan peak it takes weeks to acclimatize to the altitude. Most climbers arrive in Kathmandu two months prior to their projected summit date. They then travel to their respective base camps, follow a set process for acclimatization by going up and down the mountain several times, and wait for good weather to make a summit bid after their bodies have acclimated to the thin air. That can sometimes take 4-6 weeks, depending on conditions and the climbing schedule.
But Adrian and Emily trained back home using altitude tents to simulate the conditions they would find on the mountain. These tents were able to create an environment that closely approximates the thin air of a big Himalayan peak, but it allows them to stay home, sleep in their own beds, and have the comforts that they are typically accustomed too. Meanwhile, a support team established a Base Camp for them on Cho Oyu, making it ready for their arrival.
Two weeks ago, Ballinger and Harrington left the U.S. to fly to Nepal and then traveled to Tibet to reach the mountain. By the time they reached BC, they were fit, acclimated, and pretty much ready to go. Once the weather window opened last week, they were able to safely climb to the top, taking two clients who had prepared in a similar fashion along with them.
This approach to acclimatizing at home and shortening the length of an expedition isn't new. In fact, it is something that Ballinger and Alpenglow have been working on for some time. The company's Everest expeditions are just a month in length thanks to this novel program, and now he has proven that he can shorten the time considerably on shorter peaks too. This allows clients to spend less time on a potentially dangerous mountain, while having to be away from home for fewer days too. That makes it vacation friendly as well. The downside? An Alpenglow expedition is considerably more expensive than the competition.
This new approach has rankled some in the mountaineering community in the past, but this new Cho Oyu speed ascent has many talking once again. For some, it is an innovative new way to climb in the Himalaya, while others feel like it is still a bit unproven and could be potentially risky. There are those who see it as a bit of "cheating" – for lack of a better word – as well. Those detractors tend to be old school climbers who often consider the use of bottled oxygen as a performance enhancing drug too.
Either way, this could be the future of mountaineering. Alpenglow will of course continue to pursue this novel training technique with the idea of attracting more clients who want to climb on the big peaks, but don't necessarily have two months to dedicate to that proposition. As Ballinger and his team continue to refine their methods, I'm sure more than a few other climbers and guides will be looking to employ similar techniques to aid their expeditions as well.
Selasa, 04 Oktober 2016
Video: Unclimbed - Reaching the Summit in the Himalaya (Part 4)
In the latest episode of the ongoing YouTube series from Discover Canada entitled "Unclimbed" we join mountaineers Gabriel Filippi and Elia Saikaly as they continue to train and prepare for their attempt on three never-before climbed peaks in the Himalaya this fall. In this clip, we learn how the two men prepare for the unexpected and the worst accidents imaginable, something that is a real possibility whenever you venture into the mountains. As usual, this episode provides us with some great insights into what life on an expedition is all about, and the amount of work and planning that goes into an attempt to summit a big peak.
If you haven't watched the previous three episodes in the series, I suggest you do so. They are all excellent, and well worth your time. You'll find them here: Episode 1 - Episode 2 - Episode 3
At the moment, Gabriel and Elia are in Nepal where they are joined by Pasang Kaji Sherpa, as they prepare for their first ascents. We'll be following their progress closely in the days ahead.
If you haven't watched the previous three episodes in the series, I suggest you do so. They are all excellent, and well worth your time. You'll find them here: Episode 1 - Episode 2 - Episode 3
At the moment, Gabriel and Elia are in Nepal where they are joined by Pasang Kaji Sherpa, as they prepare for their first ascents. We'll be following their progress closely in the days ahead.
Video: GoPro Hero 5 and Karma Drone Launch Video
A few weeks back GoPro announced the launch of its latest line of Hero cameras and its first ever drone – the Karma. What exactly do these new toys bring to the table for adventure filmmakers? Check out the launch video below to get a sense of what they offer. As you'll see, the image quality is stunning and the potential is limitless. The Hero 5 went on sale earlier this week, so if you want one you can grab it now. The Karma will be available on October 23. Interesting times indeed.
Outside Gives Us the 5 Best Pieces of Gear From Interbike
A few weeks back, some of the top brands in the cycling industry descended on Las Vegas for the annual Interbike International Expo conference. Each year, that convention lays out the latest trends in the cycling industry and gives us a sneak preview of the best new products that are coming in the months ahead. And while reports indicate that attendance was a bit down this year, there were still some interesting things to show of. In fact, Outside magazine has collected their five favorite items that they saw at Interbike, and has posted them online for eager cyclists to discover.
The list includes a $20 bell from Kong, a sweet bike from Rawland Cycles, a new hitch-rack from RockyMounts, a light from Fabric, and a bike helmet with bone-conducting technology that allows you to safely listen to your tunes on a ride. Each of the products on the list is distinct and different, but each brings some good innovation to the table as well.
While not quite as exciting as Outside's list of favorite gear from Outdoor Retailer back in August, cyclists will no doubt appreciate these items nonetheless. After all, technology is making our rides safer and more enjoyable than ever before, and this is just a small sampling of what is to come in the weeks ahead. Plus, each of these five products was impressive enough to catch the attention of Outside editors, which should tell you that they are all very impressive in some way.
Fall may be in the air, but it isn't time to hang up your bike just yet.
The list includes a $20 bell from Kong, a sweet bike from Rawland Cycles, a new hitch-rack from RockyMounts, a light from Fabric, and a bike helmet with bone-conducting technology that allows you to safely listen to your tunes on a ride. Each of the products on the list is distinct and different, but each brings some good innovation to the table as well.
While not quite as exciting as Outside's list of favorite gear from Outdoor Retailer back in August, cyclists will no doubt appreciate these items nonetheless. After all, technology is making our rides safer and more enjoyable than ever before, and this is just a small sampling of what is to come in the weeks ahead. Plus, each of these five products was impressive enough to catch the attention of Outside editors, which should tell you that they are all very impressive in some way.
Fall may be in the air, but it isn't time to hang up your bike just yet.
Meet the First Men to Fly Over Everest
If you've seen the big Hollywood film Everest that came out last year, you probably heard one of the characters deliver a line about how the team would be climbing at the same altitude as a commercial jetliner. Today, aircraft fly over or around the mountain on a regular basis, and no one thinks twice about it, but back in 1933 that still seemed like an impossible height to take an aircraft, particularly in an age when pressurized cabins were not necessarily the norm just yet. But two daring pilots made that flight, and lived to tell the tale. And they did so in a biplane that is down right ancient when compared to modern aircraft.
Mashable recently posted a story and some great photos from that epic adventure that was called the Houston Everest Expedition because it was sponsored by a wealthy British philanthropist known as Lady Houston. She put up the money that allowed RAF pilot Douglas Douglas-Hamilton (aka Lord Clydesdale) and Colonel Stewart Blacker to attempt to fly a Westland PV-3 biplane over the top of the world's highest mountain, something that seemed incredibly dangerous at the time.
The two men took off from an airstrip near Purnea, India on the morning of April 3, 1933. They were accompanied by a second aircraft flown by Flight Lieutenant David McIntyre and a photographer named S.R. Bonnett. The second plane was there to record the event for posterity and get some fantastic images of this daring flight. The photographer did not disappoint.
As it turns out, the mission was a test for both pilots and aircraft, as there was indeed no pressurized cabins. The four men who were aboard the two planes had to rely on oxygen masks to keep their wits about them and help them breathe at such an altitude. On top of that, it was rare for any airplane to fly at such heights at that point in history, and the small biplane struggled in the thin air just as much as her crew.
When the two planes approached Everest, high winds caused even more problems, forcing the planes to drop 1500 feet (457 meters). But in the end, they were able to climb back up to 29,029 feet (8848 meters) and pass over the top of the summit for the very first time. All four men were given high accolades with Lord Clydesdale earning the Air Force Cross for his leadership. Bonnett's photos and video footage were also used to create an Academy Award winning film called Wings Over Everest as well. You can watch that film below.
The story of this expedition is an amazing one. Today we take it for granted that we fly at such a height, but back in 1933 it was almost as if they were trying to go to the moon. Fortunately, they proved that aircraft are sturdier than was believed and that man can go to higher heights that was previously believed. It would be 20 years before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay would actually climb to the summit, but this intrepid crew helped lead the way.
Mashable recently posted a story and some great photos from that epic adventure that was called the Houston Everest Expedition because it was sponsored by a wealthy British philanthropist known as Lady Houston. She put up the money that allowed RAF pilot Douglas Douglas-Hamilton (aka Lord Clydesdale) and Colonel Stewart Blacker to attempt to fly a Westland PV-3 biplane over the top of the world's highest mountain, something that seemed incredibly dangerous at the time.
The two men took off from an airstrip near Purnea, India on the morning of April 3, 1933. They were accompanied by a second aircraft flown by Flight Lieutenant David McIntyre and a photographer named S.R. Bonnett. The second plane was there to record the event for posterity and get some fantastic images of this daring flight. The photographer did not disappoint.
As it turns out, the mission was a test for both pilots and aircraft, as there was indeed no pressurized cabins. The four men who were aboard the two planes had to rely on oxygen masks to keep their wits about them and help them breathe at such an altitude. On top of that, it was rare for any airplane to fly at such heights at that point in history, and the small biplane struggled in the thin air just as much as her crew.
When the two planes approached Everest, high winds caused even more problems, forcing the planes to drop 1500 feet (457 meters). But in the end, they were able to climb back up to 29,029 feet (8848 meters) and pass over the top of the summit for the very first time. All four men were given high accolades with Lord Clydesdale earning the Air Force Cross for his leadership. Bonnett's photos and video footage were also used to create an Academy Award winning film called Wings Over Everest as well. You can watch that film below.
The story of this expedition is an amazing one. Today we take it for granted that we fly at such a height, but back in 1933 it was almost as if they were trying to go to the moon. Fortunately, they proved that aircraft are sturdier than was believed and that man can go to higher heights that was previously believed. It would be 20 years before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay would actually climb to the summit, but this intrepid crew helped lead the way.
Himalaya Fall 2016: New Report Indicates 90% of Nepali Liaison Officers Never Report to Base Camp
Last week we posted a story about how none of the Nepali liaison officers assigned to Base Camp on Manaslu have reported for duty this year, despite teams paying a fee to cover their expenses and the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation requiring them to be there. In all, there are 18 teams on that mountain this fall, and not one of them has seen their "LO" since they left Kathmandu. But now now, a new report from The Himalayan Times indicates that this isn't an isolated incident, and that 90% of all liaison officers never leave the capital or arrive at the mountain they are assigned to cover.
The role of liaison officer is to serve as a communications tool for climbing teams and to monitor activity on the mountains to ensure that everything is done according to regulation and in a safe manner. They are also there to coordinate rescue operations and assist in helping sick or injured climbers getting back to Kathmandu where they can be treated. But most of those duties are falling on the guiding companies, who coordinate those efforts themselves.
Nepali law states that an LO must be assigned to every climbing team heading out to a mountain, and that the liaison officer accompany that team to BC, where they will stay for the duration of the expedition. Unfortunately that isn't happening, despite the fact that teams pay $2000 in fees to pay for the LO's services. That money seems to be getting pocketed, with no real value being added for the climbers in anyway.
With several high profile disasters on Everest and other mountains in recent years, the Nepali government has vowed to make climbing in their country safer. Despite those claims however, there doesn't seem to be any significant strides being made in this area. The fact that after two deadly avalanches on Everest in 2014 and 2015 there still hasn't been a change in operations is quite telling. 80% of the LO's report that they've actually been to the mountains, although records indicate that they have never stepped foot out of Kathmandu.
As far as expedition leaders go, they have found that there is no sense in complaining or calling out a specific LO. If they do, they suddenly find it much more difficult to obtain climbing permits or they are charged fines for minor rules infractions which may or may not actually be true. In other words, if you report on the liaison officers you'll find working in Nepal is a much more difficult proposition than you first imagined.
In Nepal, the job of being a liaison officer carries some level of prestige, and most get appointed to the position as a political favor or after providing some level of service to the Prime Minister or other government officials. Because of the stature of the position, a culture has permeated throughout the LO's that allows them to get away with not doing their jobs, but still collecting the fees paid by climbers. For this to change, the Nepali government is going to have to force them to start following the letter of the law and reporting for duty as expected. Until then, Nepal can talk all it wants about how it is going to improve safety in the mountains. Having good communications and someone who actually does the job they are assigned would be good start.
The role of liaison officer is to serve as a communications tool for climbing teams and to monitor activity on the mountains to ensure that everything is done according to regulation and in a safe manner. They are also there to coordinate rescue operations and assist in helping sick or injured climbers getting back to Kathmandu where they can be treated. But most of those duties are falling on the guiding companies, who coordinate those efforts themselves.
Nepali law states that an LO must be assigned to every climbing team heading out to a mountain, and that the liaison officer accompany that team to BC, where they will stay for the duration of the expedition. Unfortunately that isn't happening, despite the fact that teams pay $2000 in fees to pay for the LO's services. That money seems to be getting pocketed, with no real value being added for the climbers in anyway.
With several high profile disasters on Everest and other mountains in recent years, the Nepali government has vowed to make climbing in their country safer. Despite those claims however, there doesn't seem to be any significant strides being made in this area. The fact that after two deadly avalanches on Everest in 2014 and 2015 there still hasn't been a change in operations is quite telling. 80% of the LO's report that they've actually been to the mountains, although records indicate that they have never stepped foot out of Kathmandu.
As far as expedition leaders go, they have found that there is no sense in complaining or calling out a specific LO. If they do, they suddenly find it much more difficult to obtain climbing permits or they are charged fines for minor rules infractions which may or may not actually be true. In other words, if you report on the liaison officers you'll find working in Nepal is a much more difficult proposition than you first imagined.
In Nepal, the job of being a liaison officer carries some level of prestige, and most get appointed to the position as a political favor or after providing some level of service to the Prime Minister or other government officials. Because of the stature of the position, a culture has permeated throughout the LO's that allows them to get away with not doing their jobs, but still collecting the fees paid by climbers. For this to change, the Nepali government is going to have to force them to start following the letter of the law and reporting for duty as expected. Until then, Nepal can talk all it wants about how it is going to improve safety in the mountains. Having good communications and someone who actually does the job they are assigned would be good start.
Senin, 03 Oktober 2016
Video: Skiing the Hardrock 100
The Hardrock 100 is considered one of the toughest ultramarathons on Earth. Held each summer in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, it challenges endurance athletes to cover 100 very tough miles (160 km) as quickly as they can. It is a difficult trail to run, even in the best of conditions, and no one has ever attempted to cross it in the winter. That is, until now. In this short documentary film we join ultrarunner Jason Schlarb as he attempts that very thing. In brutal conditions he sets off to test himself on the Hardrock trail in January, when swirling winds, deep snow, and cold temperatures are at their worst. Does he make it? You'll just have to watch the video below to find out.
Skiing the Hardrock 100 from Schlarb-Wolf Productions on Vimeo.
Video: Exploring Alaska from Above with Paraglider Paul Guschlbauer
Paul Guschlbauer is an Austrian paraglider who traveled to Alaska – one of the world's last great frontiers – to explore the region from above. What he found there was an epic wilderness that remains remote and untamed, even in the 21st century. Paul flew across this amazing place in a 60-year old airplane, finding beautiful landscapes and amazing adventures along the way. This short video takes us along for the ride, and will leave you wanting more. See Alaska the way the famous bush pilots do, and marvel and just how spectacularly beautiful the state truly is.
Gear Closet: Petzl Reactik+ Headlamp
It seems all of our electronic gadgets are getting smarter these days. First came the smartphone of course, then tablet computers, and smartwatches too. Now, thanks to the the Reactik+ from Petzl, we can add "smart" headlamps to the list too.
What makes the Reactik+ so smart you ask? Well for starters, it comes with Bluetooth wireless technology baked in that allows it to connect to your smartphone and control its functionality using a special MyPetzl mobile app. That app gives users the ability to control the brightness of their lamp yourself, or tell it what type of activity you'll be doing, and for how long, which gives the device the ability to set its own brightness levels based on how much power is lift it is rechargeable battery. The app has preset profiles for sports like trail running, mountaineering, hiking, or simply just hanging out around the campsite. You can also add your own custom profiles as well, allowing you to dial in exactly the performance you need.
At its brightest setting, the Reactik+ can crank out as much as 300 lumens of light, which is plenty for just about anything you want to do outside. On that level, it the headlamp can run for about 2.5 hours, but you can adjust the burn time for 5 or 10 hours as well, and the lamp will automatically regulate itself to achieve that length of time. This ability to extend the life of the Reactik+'s battery comes in handy if you find yourself out on the trail for longer than you expected, or you don't have a handy way to recharge the device while in the field.
The Reactik+ has several different lighting modes to help you navigate through the darkness. For instance, it features a proximity beam that diffuse the light across a wider area, as well as a focused beam that acts as a bright spotlight for when you just need to see as far ahead as possible. Of course, it also comes with a red light mode, which is handy around he campsite when you don't want to burn out the retinas of your friends who are accompany you on your outdoor adventure.
Designed to be tough and weather resistant, I recently put this headlamp to the test on a backpacking trip to Bryce Canyon where the rain was coming down sideways. Despite those poor conditions however, the Reactik+ performed admirably, surviving some of the worst weather that part of the country has seen in years, and continuing to work well. After that experience, I feel confident that this light will work great in just about any weather, with perhaps the exception of extreme cold. Frigid temps can put a strain on the life of the built in rechargeable battery, although this is something that plagues most other headlamps too.
Other features of this headlamp that I really like include a washable headband, which is a must for those of us who live in warm climates and will run with this light on our heads. I also appreciate the ability to lock-out the power source, preventing the lamps from accidentally turning on while in our packs and running down the battery. Petzl has even given the headlamp the ability to use a standard battery pack that employs AA batteries for power instead. This battery pack is sold separately, but it is nice to have the option none the less.
In terms of performance, I love all of the technology that this headlamp brings to the table. It's "smart" features work great, and I appreciate its ability to dial in just the right level of lighting to get me through a long run or a night hike back to camp. The MyPetzl app is simple to use, connects to the Reactik+ quickly and easily, and is versatile enough to allow you to fine tune things to your own liking. My only complaint is that I wish it had Apple Watch support that would allow me to adjust the light's settings on the fly without having to retrieve my iPhone from my pack or wrist strap.
At $109.95, the Petzl Reactik+ is on the expensive side in terms of headlamps. But, if you're an active outdoor athlete who runs, bikes, climbs, or hikes a lot, you may very well appreciate all of the tech features that it brings to the table. As a gadget-nerd myself, I know I certainly do. However, if you're just looking for a very good headlamp that you can take with you on your adventures, the standard Reactik may be a better choice. It performs much the same way as the "+" model, but without the "smart" features. It also sells for $84.95, making it a bit less expensive. Either way, you'll get an excellent headlamp that is comfortable to wear, versatile to use in the field, and very powerful at lighting your way.
Purchase your Reactik+ at REI.com or CampSaver.com.
REACTIK + Bluetooth headlamp with Reactive Lighting Technology from Petzl-sport on Vimeo.
What makes the Reactik+ so smart you ask? Well for starters, it comes with Bluetooth wireless technology baked in that allows it to connect to your smartphone and control its functionality using a special MyPetzl mobile app. That app gives users the ability to control the brightness of their lamp yourself, or tell it what type of activity you'll be doing, and for how long, which gives the device the ability to set its own brightness levels based on how much power is lift it is rechargeable battery. The app has preset profiles for sports like trail running, mountaineering, hiking, or simply just hanging out around the campsite. You can also add your own custom profiles as well, allowing you to dial in exactly the performance you need.
At its brightest setting, the Reactik+ can crank out as much as 300 lumens of light, which is plenty for just about anything you want to do outside. On that level, it the headlamp can run for about 2.5 hours, but you can adjust the burn time for 5 or 10 hours as well, and the lamp will automatically regulate itself to achieve that length of time. This ability to extend the life of the Reactik+'s battery comes in handy if you find yourself out on the trail for longer than you expected, or you don't have a handy way to recharge the device while in the field.
The Reactik+ has several different lighting modes to help you navigate through the darkness. For instance, it features a proximity beam that diffuse the light across a wider area, as well as a focused beam that acts as a bright spotlight for when you just need to see as far ahead as possible. Of course, it also comes with a red light mode, which is handy around he campsite when you don't want to burn out the retinas of your friends who are accompany you on your outdoor adventure.
Designed to be tough and weather resistant, I recently put this headlamp to the test on a backpacking trip to Bryce Canyon where the rain was coming down sideways. Despite those poor conditions however, the Reactik+ performed admirably, surviving some of the worst weather that part of the country has seen in years, and continuing to work well. After that experience, I feel confident that this light will work great in just about any weather, with perhaps the exception of extreme cold. Frigid temps can put a strain on the life of the built in rechargeable battery, although this is something that plagues most other headlamps too.
Other features of this headlamp that I really like include a washable headband, which is a must for those of us who live in warm climates and will run with this light on our heads. I also appreciate the ability to lock-out the power source, preventing the lamps from accidentally turning on while in our packs and running down the battery. Petzl has even given the headlamp the ability to use a standard battery pack that employs AA batteries for power instead. This battery pack is sold separately, but it is nice to have the option none the less.
In terms of performance, I love all of the technology that this headlamp brings to the table. It's "smart" features work great, and I appreciate its ability to dial in just the right level of lighting to get me through a long run or a night hike back to camp. The MyPetzl app is simple to use, connects to the Reactik+ quickly and easily, and is versatile enough to allow you to fine tune things to your own liking. My only complaint is that I wish it had Apple Watch support that would allow me to adjust the light's settings on the fly without having to retrieve my iPhone from my pack or wrist strap.
At $109.95, the Petzl Reactik+ is on the expensive side in terms of headlamps. But, if you're an active outdoor athlete who runs, bikes, climbs, or hikes a lot, you may very well appreciate all of the tech features that it brings to the table. As a gadget-nerd myself, I know I certainly do. However, if you're just looking for a very good headlamp that you can take with you on your adventures, the standard Reactik may be a better choice. It performs much the same way as the "+" model, but without the "smart" features. It also sells for $84.95, making it a bit less expensive. Either way, you'll get an excellent headlamp that is comfortable to wear, versatile to use in the field, and very powerful at lighting your way.
Purchase your Reactik+ at REI.com or CampSaver.com.
Roald Amundsen's Ship Recovered From the Arctic Ocean
After resting at the bottom of the ocean for more then 85 years, Roald Amundsen's ship the Maud has been brought back to the surface, and is preparing to return to Norway. The ship, which was discovered off the coast of Cambridge Bay in Canada, helped to chart the Northeast Passage from 1918-1920, sunk in those waters back in 1930 after a short, but distinguished career in exploration.
A recovery team has spent the past six years working to bring the ship up from its watery grave. This past July, their efforts finally paid off, as the ship returned to the surface for the first time in more than eight decades. The crew first had to place a series of inflatable ballasts around the hull of the vessel, then slowly add air to them. Eventually this allowed them to place it on a barge and float it into harbor. Over the past two months, they have been been cleaning up the interior of the vessel in preparation for weathering the winter in the Arctic.
The recovery team says that the winter weather will actually help the ship, allowing its wooden hull to dry. This will help to reduce the ship's current weight, and will take some of the pressure off of the hull. That will help to stabilize it for the long journey back home to Norway, which is likely to take place next summer.
According to reports, the ship is in surprisingly good shape. The hull remains solid and strong, despite being at the bottom of the ocean for so long. The vessel was originally built back in 1917, and commissioned by Amundsen to accompany him on his exploration of the icy waters north of Russia. Amundsen is well know for is exploits in the cold places of our planet. He was the first person to reach the South Pole back in 1911, and was instrumental in exploring the Arctic as well, becoming the first person to full pass through the Northwest Passage.
The Maud was sold off in 1925, five years before she sank. But, she is considered an important piece of exploration history, and back home in Norway she'll be preserved for posterity. In that country, Amundsen is incredibly famous, and any relic left over from his expeditions is a valuable commodity.
This is quite a cool story. I'm glad this team was able to locate and recover the ship. Hopefully it makes it through the winter in one piece, and returns home next year as planned.
A recovery team has spent the past six years working to bring the ship up from its watery grave. This past July, their efforts finally paid off, as the ship returned to the surface for the first time in more than eight decades. The crew first had to place a series of inflatable ballasts around the hull of the vessel, then slowly add air to them. Eventually this allowed them to place it on a barge and float it into harbor. Over the past two months, they have been been cleaning up the interior of the vessel in preparation for weathering the winter in the Arctic.
The recovery team says that the winter weather will actually help the ship, allowing its wooden hull to dry. This will help to reduce the ship's current weight, and will take some of the pressure off of the hull. That will help to stabilize it for the long journey back home to Norway, which is likely to take place next summer.
According to reports, the ship is in surprisingly good shape. The hull remains solid and strong, despite being at the bottom of the ocean for so long. The vessel was originally built back in 1917, and commissioned by Amundsen to accompany him on his exploration of the icy waters north of Russia. Amundsen is well know for is exploits in the cold places of our planet. He was the first person to reach the South Pole back in 1911, and was instrumental in exploring the Arctic as well, becoming the first person to full pass through the Northwest Passage.
The Maud was sold off in 1925, five years before she sank. But, she is considered an important piece of exploration history, and back home in Norway she'll be preserved for posterity. In that country, Amundsen is incredibly famous, and any relic left over from his expeditions is a valuable commodity.
This is quite a cool story. I'm glad this team was able to locate and recover the ship. Hopefully it makes it through the winter in one piece, and returns home next year as planned.
Himalaya Fall 2016: More Summits on Cho Oyu and Manaslu, a Double Summit, and Death on Shisha
As expected, there was a lot of news out of the Himalaya this past weekend, where good weather allowed a number of teams to summit their respective mountains. It now appears as if most of the commercial teams are winding down their activities, and it has been a very successful couple of days.
We'll start on Manaslu, where The Himalayan Times now reports that 150 climbers summited over a two day period. 100 of those topped out last Friday, while another 50 completed their climbs on Saturday. Amongst them were the Seven Summit Treks team, which has the largest squad on the mountain this autumn. No small feat considered there were 17 total teams there this year. By all accounts, it was a well scheduled and orderly ascent and descent, with most of the teams now back in Base Camp and preparing to head back to Kathmandu.
Over on Cho Oyu we already knew that the Adventure Consultants had topped out at the end of last week, and the IMG team wasn't far behind. They summited yesterday, putting another 19 climbers on top, and bringing the total close to 40 on the Tibetan side of the mountain. The Adventure Consultants are packed and heading out for KTM today, but the IMG squad will likely rest a bit in BC and begin heading for home later this week.
Speaking of Cho Oyu, one climber performed an impressive feat on that mountain this weekend. Australian Rolfe Oostra managed to summit last Friday, then return to the top again the following day, pulling off a rare double-summit of the 6th highest peak on the planet. An experienced mountain guide, Oostra first went up the peak with two of his staff members, then guided two clients up the following day. That is quite a display of strength and fortitude to say the least.
The news wasn't quite so good on Dhaulagiri. After a few days of radio silence, the Altitude Junkies checked in over the weekend to report that they had aborted their summit bid. The plan was to top out on October 1, but once they reached Camp 1 they discovered very deep snow along the route. In fact, it was roughly a meter (3 ft) deep in parts, making it very tough going. The team has now returned to BC and is discussing what to do next. With more snow in the forecast, the expedition could be over without an opportunity to summit. We'll learn more soon.
Finally, some sad news from Shishapangma, where the Times is reporting that a Sherpa named Pemba who was climbing with the RMI team was struck and killed by an avalanche. The accident took place just below Camp 3 on the mountain as the Sherpa team was moving up with gear and supplies. No one else was injured, and all are safely back in BC at the moment. Our condolences to Pemba's friends and family.
That's all for today. More news as it warranted.
We'll start on Manaslu, where The Himalayan Times now reports that 150 climbers summited over a two day period. 100 of those topped out last Friday, while another 50 completed their climbs on Saturday. Amongst them were the Seven Summit Treks team, which has the largest squad on the mountain this autumn. No small feat considered there were 17 total teams there this year. By all accounts, it was a well scheduled and orderly ascent and descent, with most of the teams now back in Base Camp and preparing to head back to Kathmandu.
Over on Cho Oyu we already knew that the Adventure Consultants had topped out at the end of last week, and the IMG team wasn't far behind. They summited yesterday, putting another 19 climbers on top, and bringing the total close to 40 on the Tibetan side of the mountain. The Adventure Consultants are packed and heading out for KTM today, but the IMG squad will likely rest a bit in BC and begin heading for home later this week.
Speaking of Cho Oyu, one climber performed an impressive feat on that mountain this weekend. Australian Rolfe Oostra managed to summit last Friday, then return to the top again the following day, pulling off a rare double-summit of the 6th highest peak on the planet. An experienced mountain guide, Oostra first went up the peak with two of his staff members, then guided two clients up the following day. That is quite a display of strength and fortitude to say the least.
The news wasn't quite so good on Dhaulagiri. After a few days of radio silence, the Altitude Junkies checked in over the weekend to report that they had aborted their summit bid. The plan was to top out on October 1, but once they reached Camp 1 they discovered very deep snow along the route. In fact, it was roughly a meter (3 ft) deep in parts, making it very tough going. The team has now returned to BC and is discussing what to do next. With more snow in the forecast, the expedition could be over without an opportunity to summit. We'll learn more soon.
Finally, some sad news from Shishapangma, where the Times is reporting that a Sherpa named Pemba who was climbing with the RMI team was struck and killed by an avalanche. The accident took place just below Camp 3 on the mountain as the Sherpa team was moving up with gear and supplies. No one else was injured, and all are safely back in BC at the moment. Our condolences to Pemba's friends and family.
That's all for today. More news as it warranted.
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